Mitred edge binding gives a neat corner and can be cut on the straight and can be single or double binding.

• Cut sufficient length to fit the whole quilt and join strips on the bias as necessary.
• Start in the middle of the bottom or side rather than at a corner or on the top.
• Pin the raw edge of the doubled binding to the quilt at your starting point and stitch your seam allowance.
• When you get to the corner, stop at your seam allowance distance from the end and do a back stitch or two.
• Take the piece out of the machine and place the binding at right angles from the piece to make a sharp right angle.

Mitred edge binding gives a neat corner and can be cut on the straight and can be single or double binding.

• Cut sufficient length to fit the whole quilt and join strips on the bias as necessary.
• Start in the middle of the bottom or side rather than at a corner or on the top.
• Pin the raw edge of the doubled binding to the quilt at your starting point and stitch your seam allowance.
• When you get to the corner, stop at your seam allowance distance from the end and do a back stitch or two.
• Take the piece out of the machine and place the binding at right angles from the piece to make a sharp right angle.

• Bring binding down so the fold is level with the edge of the fabric.
• Place back under the machine foot and stitch you seam allowance down from the top and in from the edge, do a few stitches, then back stitch before continuing to stitch forward to the end of the side.
• Repeat all corners.

• Bring binding down so the fold is level with the edge of the fabric.
• Place back under the machine foot and stitch you seam allowance down from the top and in from the edge, do a few stitches, then back stitch before continuing to stitch forward to the end of the side.
• Repeat all corners.

• Fold the binding over to the back and fold corner.
• Press before slip stitching onto backing.

• Fold the binding over to the back and fold corner.
• Press before slip stitching onto backing.